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Disko Bay Ice Coring Project

A research expedition blog by Milton Academy science faculty member, Matt Bingham

Greenland!

Posted by on Apr 15, 2014

If you aren’t following me on Instagram, please do!  There is a camera icon link to it on the right side of every page.  At least today I have been posting a lot of photos-essentially live photo blogging through the day.  I won’t be able to do that when in the field, but on the in-between days I can. The blog is also having a hard time uploading photos so the Instagram link is the place to go for photos.

So after months (years really from when we first submitted the grant proposal) we are finally in Greenland for the first of two field seasons.  Yesterday I posted an overview of what we will be doing and today, it all actually started to happen!

MOnday was a weird day.  In some ways Greenland seems like a far away, remote, strange, possibly hostile (in terms of environment) place. But then you can get on a plane (not a commercial flight mind you) in upstate NY and in 4 hours be in Greenland, non-stop.  Pretty easy really.

At the end of my last post we were just getting ready to take off.  Flying in a plane with no windows is an odd thing.  I don’t get air-sick but I did feel a little funny sometimes without being able to see the horizon while the plane lifted off or banked.  It was also VERY loud.  So loud that you you basically can’t talk without shouting.  As we drove onto the tarmac before loading the plane we were given ear plugs which everyone wore the entire flight, which also made the flight weird because no one could hear no no one was talking.  The flight was mostly uneventful.  As air travel goes though it was actually quite nice.  Being 6’4″ leg room is always an issue, but as you can see above, not on this plane!  Folks mostly slept or read books or working on their computers-just like any other flight.

About an hour out I looked out one of the two tiny porthole windows and saw something I have never seen in person-sea ice.

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We were over southern Baffin Bay and through the clouds I could see the broken up pack ice. A bout an hour later they told us it was time to land.  The Load Master who was sitting next to me had attached a GoPro camera to the inside of the cockpit window.  From his iPad we could watch what the camera was seeing. IMG_5884

When we landed in Greenland it was a beautiful sunny day, but cold!  We immediately boarded another bus that took us to Kangerlussuaq International Science Support (KISS).  Here they have offices, bunk rooms, some science labs, and lots of support equipment for science groups.  It, and the buildings next door, are large rectangular 2 story buildings that look like giant shipping containers.  They are left over from when Kanger was a US Air Force base so they have a very barracks-like feel to them.  After a little orientation meeting from the KISS folks we put on some warm clothes and walked down the street to a bridge over a river and then up the other side of the valley to where we could look back over the river to the town and then the fjord in the far distance.  It was COLD!  We got a pretty taste of how it will feel to be out all day working and we will certainly need to be bundled up! Tuesday we will be planning and packing for our first day in the field.  Wednesay we are scheduled to fly a Twin Otter up to the ice sheet.  MIMG_5893ore on Tuesday’s planning at the end of the day.

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Go time!

Posted by on Apr 14, 2014

Right now we are sitting in the C17 awaiting departure. This morning we took the hotel shuttle to the air base but the shuttle could not enter so we had to throw all our gear into the back of a big military police pickup and cram all 6 of us into the cab with the driver. Then we hung around an auditorium for about two hours while the crew “palletized” our luggage. They strap them to pallets and pack the plane as you see behind us. Finally, about 9:45, we took a bus out to the plane and loaded up. The seats are a little uncomfortable but not bad. Certainly more spacious than a commercial plane. The commander gave me a tour of the cockpit and explained that the C17 is one of the few aircraft this size with a stick (like in a helicopter) for control rather than a yoke. I was not allowed to blog the photo of the cockpit!

Me are on board with 12 folks froM Polar Field Services, the outfit that runs most of the science logistics for research projects in Greenland. The gear you see in the back is equipment for research teams for around the country that will be coming Greenland in the months to come. This is really a cargo flight and we are basically part of that cargo. pilot flight crew is currently running through the aircraft systems in their preflight check so looks like it is time to go soon. Next blog post will be from Kangerlussuaq!
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Getting there: Logistics Part 2

Posted by on Apr 13, 2014

The first field season in Greenland is officially here.  In about an hour we will pack up our rental SUV and drive out to Newburgh, New York to the Stewart Air National Guard base.  Monday morning we board a C-17 from the 105th Air Lift Wing of the Air National Guard.  The C-17 will fly us to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland. From there we spend a day getting ready to fly out to the first field site on the Greenland Ice Sheet.  To access the first site we will use a Twin Otter aircraft similar to the one on the left.

twin otterEdwards welcomes back Air Force's first C-17

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there we overnight in Ilulissat and then Qaarsut while we access the Disko Bay and Nussuaq sites via A-Star helicopter.

AStar_on_ice The complete itinerary is scheduled to look something like this:

Monday April 14: Fly Air National Guard C-17 to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland.  Stay at KISS (Kangerlussuaq International Science Support)

Tuesday April 15: at KISS-prep for Twin Otter flight

 Wednesday April 16: First field day: Twin Otter to Greenland Ice Sheet site #1. Fly to Illulissat.

 Thursday April 17: Second field day: Twin Otter back to GrIS site #2. Return to Ilulissat

 Friday April 18: Down day in Ilulissat

 Saturday April 19: Third field day: Helicopter to Disko Island site.  Return to Ilulissat.

 Sunday April 20: Happy Easter; down day

 Monday April 21: Patriot’s Day-Marathon Monday back home; Fourth field day: Helicopter to Disko Island site.  To Qaarsut for night.

 Tuesday/Wednesday April 22/23: Fifth and sixth field days: Helicopter to Nussuaq sites.

 Thursday April 24: back up day to reach Nussuaq sites; otherwise return to Ilulissat and Matt B and Ashley fly Air Greenland to Kangerlussuaq; rest of team overnights in Ilulissat

 Friday April 25: rest of team to Kangerlussuaq

 Saturday/Sunday April 26/27: Kangerlussuaq

Monday April 28: return to US

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Getting there: Logistics part 1

Posted by on Apr 10, 2014

In my “Welcome” note (see top Nav bar) I mention that students at Milton Academy will be contributing content to the site and blog.  The following interview was conducted, and written up, by Jonathan Chan, Class III.

Jonathan is interviewing Robin Abbott who is the Greenland Science Project Manager for Polar Field Services.  Polar Field Services handles all the logistics for National Science Foundation funded projects in Greenland.

1)      How do the researchers get themselves and their equipment from the US to Greenland?

There are different ways to do this. The National Science Foundation has a contract with the 109th Air National Guard and they have a base in northern New York and often researchers will fly on the 109th.  They put out a schedule at the beginning of the season and they usually fly starting in April and finish in August, and they usually fly for a week or so to Greenland and researchers try to use those flights to do their work and then come home. It’s sometimes tricky because everyone has their own time frame and sometimes their flights don’t work. So if that happens the researchers will use the Air National Guard  plane for one way and then they will come back using commercial airlines. And how you get out of Greenland is from Kangerlussuaq to Copenhagen, Denmark.  And then Copenhagen, Denmark you have to spend the night and then you fly out the next day and fly back to the United States. That’s why everyone likes to go on the 109th Air National Guard because it’s about a 6 hour flight and you get in the back of a C-130 or C-17 airplane and you fly to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland and you’re there. So there is no change in airplane and having to get in hotels and things like that. These aircraft also work in Antarctica so they go down there in our winter because its summer there and then they come and work for the Greenland side of things in the summer. Air Iceland is another way to get to Greenland but those are flights that mostly go to the east coast of Greenland but where we have an office is on the west coast of Greenland in Kangerlussuaq.

2)      How do the researchers get to field sites once in Greenland and who owns or manages the transportation?

Sarah Das (PI on our project) for instance, needs to have both a Twin Otter airplane and a helicopter and so do some of their research, depending on where they go in Greenland. For example if you are in the snow up on the ice with big old ice caps they use a Twin Otter to get there.  A Twin Otter is a fixed wing aircraft with two engines that seat about 10 passengers with the cargo and it has skis on it, so it goes up and lands on the ice cap and people can do their work there. Along the coast of Greenland it is very rugged and very mountainous so you have to use a helicopter to get to those sites because there is no landing area such as a strip or runway. If the cargo doesn’t fit in the helicopter they have to make a sling-load. They usually don’t like to put any people inside the helicopter when that happens but they like to put things inside. Sometimes with the smaller helicopters you need to sling-load.  So with Sarah Das and her project, we just found out that her big long ice box will fit inside of the helicopter so we are happy about that just because its quicker.

3)      Where do scientists stay/live while in Greenland?

When they fly to Kangerlussuaq on those C-17s or C130s, we have an office building there that is kind of like a dormitory and they have kitchens , bathrooms down the hall and everybody has to share a room.  That’s where they will stay the first night. And if they are travelling, in the case of Sarah, the Twin Otter will pick them up the next day to fly up to the next town and to the ice cap. And at that time I have rented hotel rooms for them [in Ilulisaat]. Sarah has 6 people in her group so I have 4 rooms and some have to share but it’s a nice area for researchers to talk and work on their gear and things. And then the group has to go to another site which is a little too far to get back to Ilulisaat so they will stay in a town on an island north of Ilulisaat, and there they don’t have any hotels so I have talked to the airport manager who has some rooms for pilots and different people who need housing so I’ve rented those rooms for that Sarah Das project. So you just have to kind of find out where they’re going and see what resources are there. It is sometimes challenging because there aren’t hotels and motels everywhere in Greenland. It’s a very big country but it only has 58 thousand people in the country and they call it the biggest island in the world. Sometimes other researchers will camp out on the ice caps and there they might take tents and sleeping bags and camp out for a week or two.

4)      Do scientists stay in Greenland year round like at the South Pole or McMurdo Station in Antarctica?

There are – these are the people working up at Summit Camp. This is a camp up on the Greenland ice sheet. It is in the middle of Greenland where they are studying snow chemistry and meteorology.  They also do drilling of ice cores to look back at snow from years ago. They’ve got internet up there, a big old satellite dish and there are 5 people that stay there all winter long and monitor 30 some measurements. So the researchers go up there and set them up and we have people there that are called technicians and they will take readings all winter.  There is mechanic there to make sure the generator is working to keep them warm and a manager too. They have beautiful Auroras this time of year (northern lights).

5)      What safety training and or equipment do you or your company issue to the scientists?

We do ask that all scientists bring their own sleeping bags and their own clothes. We hope everyone is very smart and knows how to dress and we find that most people do and Sarah Das is extremely professional at this – she’s been doing this for years. But as far as equipment is concerned, where they are flying on a helicopter or a Twin Otter, we give them survival bags – basically 3 days of food (dehydrated meals), a stove, tents , sleeping bags  – and all the things you would need if you got stuck out there and needed to survive and stay warm, but hopefully people don’t get in that situation. We also try to encourage people to go to field training of some kind. I think Sarah just had a class on glacier training for people going on her group. So we just encourage people to get some training on just how to walk on the snow, what to avoid if you’re going to be near crevasses; just all the risks that you might come in contact with out there. We offer these things and luckily Sarah did that. We have lots of things on our website you can read and there are different ways for people to get information to become quite savvy and smart when you’re out there in the wilderness.

6)      No matter how well you set things up ahead of time there must be changes in plans due to weather, equipment, etc.  How much of that do you have to handle on the fly while the field research is going on?

You’re right about that.  Usually we try to bring backup equipment. Sarah’s got an extra drill she’s bringing just in case her primary drill isn’t working, and then handling things on the fly. There is nothing you can do about the weather so we work with Air Greenland for the helicopters and we work with Nordland Air which is from Iceland for our Twin Otters. We always work with the pilot and just try to figure out the plan based on the weather. Sometimes we need them to open the airports because in Greenland the airports close. They are only open from 8 to 5 and some of them are only open from 9 to 4 because there is just not much traffic going on there. Hard to imagine.  Some airports they have to use helicopters and they are called heli-ports because they can’t land the airplanes. But anyway we just try to work with the provider, Air Greenland or Nordland Air, to figure out how can we get the work done and when we can do it and it usually works out pretty well – sometimes they have to send another helicopter because the helicopter is booked for someone else – so it’s a puzzle and that’s one of the challenges doing logistics – you make the best plan ever and it never goes just as you think it is going to. You love it when it works. You just try to do whatever you can do to get that work done for the scientists.

7)      What are a major concerns/ obstacles in terms of transporting the ice cores back to the researchers’ labs in the US?

I think our biggest concern there is mostly in Greenland because we have to use freezers there that we are borrowing so we find out what the temp is going to be and what our access will be. As I mentioned the airport is closed sometimes so that makes it hard for the person who can open the freezer who has gone home so we have a person that works in Greenland for us and she travels around and tries to pave the way, make arrangements and get to know the people, the locals, and maybe they will give her a key or something so maybe she can get in after hours. But it’s always a concern-the freezers in Greenland-because mostly they don’t know whether and ice core box will fit in their freezer. So I found freezers in both these towns and they should do fine but then when it’s time to bring the samples back we kind of have to trust that they know the ice boxes should not be taken out of the freezers and sit there with their airplanes – you need to treat the ice boxes like frozen samples – like ice cream and get it on that plane and make sure it gets to the next site because some of these planes have two stops before they get to our freezer so you know each time there is a risk – what if the airplane breaks down etc.? You just kind of keep tabs on it the best you can. Once things get to Kangerlussuaq though, we have a freezer we can use there. We can turn it way down so it gets very cold and then we have what we call a “cold deck” on the C130s where there are no people on the deck and we’ll ask them to turn off all the heat in the back because we have frozen sample ice cores coming out . So they will fly that plane back to New York and at that end we have a freezer truck that we’ve hired and they will get the boxes off and deliver the boxes to the different universities.

8) Is there anything else interesting (tools, equipment, accommodation) that you could share?

I’ll tell you one thing. On the east coast of Greenland it is mostly accessed from Iceland and on the west Coast it is mostly accessed by Denmark. When you’re in Greenland, it feels like you’re in the past because there are a lot of hunters and they are selling meat and their fish is hanging and drying like you witness from way back and people are just very traditional. There is also a lot of Danish influence there and its very interesting and colorful – all the houses are really bright and they are still doing things like going out on sleds and hunting polar bears and walruses and all these things up north.

(This interview transcript has been edited (minimally) from Robin’s actual language for clarity).

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Dress for Success

Posted by on Apr 6, 2014

It is one week until we head out to Greenland.  Spring has finally arrived in Milton.   As I write, crocuses are in bloom and the tulips in my yard are pushing up.  But in Illulisat, Greenland it is 5°F, and that is at sea-level (our field sites will all be considerably higher).  The highest the temperature will get there this coming week is 37°F with several days that won’t get above 10°F.

In those kinds of temperatures what you wear and how you wear it can make all the difference between a pleasurable (or at least tolerable) day outdoors and a freezing suffer-fest.  For the past several winter months I have been trying to get ready for long days in the field in Greenland by spending as much time out in the cold as possible.  Winter hiking, ice climbing, cross country and downhill skiing, and even dog walking in the cold are all things that I enjoy doing already, but this winter I tried to ramp up my activity more than usual.  My plan was to acclimate myself to the cold and also to test out various clothing “systems.” From 20+ years of time spent in the outdoors I have acquired several options for base-layers, fleece, down, and shell jackets, and gloves, mittens, and hats.  Even with all that gear I always seem to have trouble keeping my hands and feet warm so I wanted to really test which combinations of all these options would be most likely to keep me warm while in Greenland.

You will see from my Instagram (hit the “camera” icon on the right of each page) that I wrapped up winter (ironically during Spring Vacation) with some snowy adventures. The last week of break I got the chance to really put my “training” to the test.  My friend Tom had hiked all of New Hampshire’s peaks over 4000 feet (there are 48 in total) except for Mt. Washington, the biggest and the baddest of them all.

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Mt. Washington has a weather observatory on top and, in the summer, you can access the summit by car or the Cog Railroad.  Tom hasn’t loved the idea of going to summit in the summer; there is something disheartening about hiking to the top only to find a bunch of people who drove or took the train.  So I convinced him that a winter ascent was the way to go!
We made it to the top on March 27 under sunny skies but it was below freezing.  There were also strong winds (50-60 mph) over the summit so it was well below zero with the wind chill-basically full-on winter conditions!Summit of Mt. Washington.

I learned several things that should help in Greenland.  I already knew the value of layering with synthetic (non-cotton) clothes and I got the system just right this time. On the bottom: mid-weight long underwear bottoms with Polartec 100 fleece pants and a shell bibs.  My bibs are shorter (they don’t completely cover the chest) but they allow you tuck your upper layers into the pants without them coming untucked.  This conserves a lot of heat that would otherwise potentially leak out when layers get untucked from pants.  On top: a mid-weight long underwear top and a Patagonia R2 fleece.  I found this combo to be warm and breathable but completely lacking in wind-proofness, so when we got above treeline I added a Patagonia Nano-Puff insulation layer and a 3 layer Goretex shell and I was toasty warm the rest of the day.  I never even had to go for the “big-dog,” my 800 fill goose down parka, which stayed in its stuff sack in my pack.  While these layers worked well, what really made the difference were four things-liner gloves, a snug balaclava, hoods, and goggles.
mt-washAs I said, my hands always get cold, even with my biggest mittens.  A new addition to my quiver this time out was Minus 33 brand merino wool liner gloves inside my big Black Diamond Mercury mitts.  When needed, I was able to take off the big mitts and still be warm in the gloves.  I even took the gloves partially off to run the camera on my iPhone.  I had also just purchased a snug fitting balaclava that covered most of my face from Ragged Mountain in North Conway, NH.  I then put up the hood on my Patagonia Nano-Puff (a super light-weight insulated jacket) and then the ski goggles over the hood.  Finally I put up the hood of my shell jacket and cinched it down tight so the wind could not blow it off.  With the balaclava, hoods, and goggles, only the tip of my nose was exposed and even that could be covered with the balaclava.  The goggles were especially key because they allowed for great vision and a surprising amount of warmth, not to mention that they acted as sunglasses on a bright day.

With this combo of clothing, I never got cold once all day-probably a first for me! So now I have a better idea how to dress in Greenland.  If you are venturing into the outdoors, remember that layers of non-cotton long underwear and fleece along with hooded wind-proof jackets will keep your heat in and the cold wind out!

 

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Glacier Travel training next weekend

Posted by on Jan 24, 2014

Next weekend (Presidents’ Day Weekend) the east coast members of the research team will be doing a glacier travel training in North Conway New Hampshire with a guide from International Mountain Equipment (IME), a mountaineering guide service.  Most members of the team have worked on glaciers before; however, it is always a good idea to brush up on the skills required to travel safely on a glacier.

The upper 50m or so of glacial ice is brittle and cracks open as the glacier moves over uneven bedrock.  These cracks, called crevasses, are a major danger to people walking on the surface of the glacier.  Because the upper 50m of the glacier can crack, the crevasses can be that deep-50m or about 150 ft!  That is a long way to fall!  Crevasses can become obscured by winter snowfall making spring glacier travel dangerous.

Climbers, hikers, and scientists traveling on a glacier usually do so roped together so that if someone falls into a crevasse, the other members of the rope team can stop the fall and extract the person from the crevasse.  Being comfortable with various roped travel techniques and systems is what we will be practicing.

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