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Prep day (and tax day)

Posted by on Apr 16, 2014

Your taxes were due today.  Hope you didn’t forget.  I didn’t because Sarah Das reminded us all before we left not to forget to do our taxes!

Today was a big day of planning and packing.  The only place for breakfast that is open right now is a cafeteria at the airport so we headed over there this morning about 8.  Thats where I took this photo-looking out across the snowy airport runway.

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After a fairly European breakfast of muesli, dried meat and cheese, danishes, Nutella, it was time to go over gear (again!).  This time we had to go through all the science equipment that various Ben and Sarah and Matt sent up on an earlier C17 flight a few weeks ago as well as a bunch of equipment that Polar Field Services has for us.  PFS is the outfit that the National Science Foundation contracts to handle all the logistics for NSF projects in Greenland.  So we spent most of the day in a concrete block of a windowless (but warm) warehouse sorting all our gear and making decisions about what to take and what to leave behind.

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 So what’s in the gear?  Clockwise from the left: the big black and yellow Pelican boxes are Ben’s ground penetrating radar and GPS sensors.  The radar will be pulled on a sled to measure ice thickness and stratigraphy (layering) and the GPS units will be used to measure a strain grid.  We will insert long bamboo poles into the snow and measure their position with his very accurate GPS and then remeasure the same poles a year later to see how the glacier has moved over that time.  The white boxes are the the ice core boxes.  They look like cardboard boxes but inside are insulated.  Ice cores go into insulated tubes that then go into the insulated box and when we get back to town, into a a freezer.  Eventual they fly home on a “cold deck” flight of a C-130 (they don’t turn on the heat in the cargo area). At the top of the photo is a silver box full of equipment to do snow sampling in the snow pits followed my more small Pelican boxes (black and yellow) will all our “coms.”  We have a UHF short range walkie talkie for each person, 2 longer range VHF units, and three satellite phones.  Next to those are bamboo stakes which are used to stake out anything from a tent to a wind-break tarp.  Then we have shovels to dig the snow pit and a chainsaw in case we hit an ice melt layer on the way down (to cut weight in the plane, we are likely to leave that behind).  Finally the green bags are our “survival bags” with tents, sleeping bags, pads, stoves, fuel, and food for several days.  Those are in the event that we are stuck on the ice because of sudden weather changes or aircraft breakdown.  In the middle are some Crazy Creek chairs, tarps, and pads.  These are to sit in when taking breaks, and to stand or kneel on when sampling in a snow pit.  They give a little extra insulation between you and the cold snow.  We had to go through all this gear to make sure it fit our needs.  That included setting up the survival tents so we were sure we knew how.

Around lunch time I came back to my room at KISS and did a FaceTime call with the 3rd and 1rst Grade at Charles River School.  The kids got to ask me about being in Greenland-they wanted to know if I saw any animals (only Ravens so far), if polar bears or penguins lived here (bears-penguins are only in the southern hemisphere), if Santa was nearby (I haven’ seen him), and how may clothes I had to wear (not a ton so far but like winter in Boston).  I also got to take them outside KISS to see the view of nearby mountains and the town.  Here is what I saw on the left and what they saw on the right.IMG_5911

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After lunch we were back to the packing.  It became apparent that we had a LOT of gear and might not make the weight requirement of the plane so we started triage on what we really needed and cut some things out.  About 6 PM the pilots of the Twin Otter arrived and we learned two things.  First that we did not have to worry quite as much about the weight and second that the weather looked good for our first flight tomorrow but bad for the next 2-4 days thereafter.  We were supposed to visit two sites on the Greenland Ice Sheet-one tomorrow and one the next day.  After a long dinner of discussion of all kinds of options, a phone call to the pilots, more discussion, two phone calls back with the pilots, we finally decided (at 9 PM, which seems way earlier because it is still light here at 10 PM-just dusky), that we would try to visit both sites tomorrow and scale back the sampling at each site a little so as to get something at each site.  Next year, members of the team will return to drill 100m ice cores and we need to know which site is better so visiting each, even if we did not get all the data we originally wanted, was going to be sufficient.  These are the types of decisions you have to make on fly in order to maximize what we get out of our limited time here.  So that means that tomorrow will be a BIG day.  We will likely be on the go for about 14 hours tomorrow.  It will be impossible to post to Instagram from the Ice Sheet and I probably won’t get much of a blog out tomorrow, but the next few days will be more relaxed if the weather in fact pins us down.  Tomorrow we should be spending the night in Ilulissat.  Wish us luck tomorrow!

 

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Greenland!

Posted by on Apr 15, 2014

If you aren’t following me on Instagram, please do!  There is a camera icon link to it on the right side of every page.  At least today I have been posting a lot of photos-essentially live photo blogging through the day.  I won’t be able to do that when in the field, but on the in-between days I can. The blog is also having a hard time uploading photos so the Instagram link is the place to go for photos.

So after months (years really from when we first submitted the grant proposal) we are finally in Greenland for the first of two field seasons.  Yesterday I posted an overview of what we will be doing and today, it all actually started to happen!

MOnday was a weird day.  In some ways Greenland seems like a far away, remote, strange, possibly hostile (in terms of environment) place. But then you can get on a plane (not a commercial flight mind you) in upstate NY and in 4 hours be in Greenland, non-stop.  Pretty easy really.

At the end of my last post we were just getting ready to take off.  Flying in a plane with no windows is an odd thing.  I don’t get air-sick but I did feel a little funny sometimes without being able to see the horizon while the plane lifted off or banked.  It was also VERY loud.  So loud that you you basically can’t talk without shouting.  As we drove onto the tarmac before loading the plane we were given ear plugs which everyone wore the entire flight, which also made the flight weird because no one could hear no no one was talking.  The flight was mostly uneventful.  As air travel goes though it was actually quite nice.  Being 6’4″ leg room is always an issue, but as you can see above, not on this plane!  Folks mostly slept or read books or working on their computers-just like any other flight.

About an hour out I looked out one of the two tiny porthole windows and saw something I have never seen in person-sea ice.

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We were over southern Baffin Bay and through the clouds I could see the broken up pack ice. A bout an hour later they told us it was time to land.  The Load Master who was sitting next to me had attached a GoPro camera to the inside of the cockpit window.  From his iPad we could watch what the camera was seeing. IMG_5884

When we landed in Greenland it was a beautiful sunny day, but cold!  We immediately boarded another bus that took us to Kangerlussuaq International Science Support (KISS).  Here they have offices, bunk rooms, some science labs, and lots of support equipment for science groups.  It, and the buildings next door, are large rectangular 2 story buildings that look like giant shipping containers.  They are left over from when Kanger was a US Air Force base so they have a very barracks-like feel to them.  After a little orientation meeting from the KISS folks we put on some warm clothes and walked down the street to a bridge over a river and then up the other side of the valley to where we could look back over the river to the town and then the fjord in the far distance.  It was COLD!  We got a pretty taste of how it will feel to be out all day working and we will certainly need to be bundled up! Tuesday we will be planning and packing for our first day in the field.  Wednesay we are scheduled to fly a Twin Otter up to the ice sheet.  MIMG_5893ore on Tuesday’s planning at the end of the day.

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Go time!

Posted by on Apr 14, 2014

Right now we are sitting in the C17 awaiting departure. This morning we took the hotel shuttle to the air base but the shuttle could not enter so we had to throw all our gear into the back of a big military police pickup and cram all 6 of us into the cab with the driver. Then we hung around an auditorium for about two hours while the crew “palletized” our luggage. They strap them to pallets and pack the plane as you see behind us. Finally, about 9:45, we took a bus out to the plane and loaded up. The seats are a little uncomfortable but not bad. Certainly more spacious than a commercial plane. The commander gave me a tour of the cockpit and explained that the C17 is one of the few aircraft this size with a stick (like in a helicopter) for control rather than a yoke. I was not allowed to blog the photo of the cockpit!

Me are on board with 12 folks froM Polar Field Services, the outfit that runs most of the science logistics for research projects in Greenland. The gear you see in the back is equipment for research teams for around the country that will be coming Greenland in the months to come. This is really a cargo flight and we are basically part of that cargo. pilot flight crew is currently running through the aircraft systems in their preflight check so looks like it is time to go soon. Next blog post will be from Kangerlussuaq!
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Getting there: Logistics Part 2

Posted by on Apr 13, 2014

The first field season in Greenland is officially here.  In about an hour we will pack up our rental SUV and drive out to Newburgh, New York to the Stewart Air National Guard base.  Monday morning we board a C-17 from the 105th Air Lift Wing of the Air National Guard.  The C-17 will fly us to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland. From there we spend a day getting ready to fly out to the first field site on the Greenland Ice Sheet.  To access the first site we will use a Twin Otter aircraft similar to the one on the left.

twin otterEdwards welcomes back Air Force's first C-17

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there we overnight in Ilulissat and then Qaarsut while we access the Disko Bay and Nussuaq sites via A-Star helicopter.

AStar_on_ice The complete itinerary is scheduled to look something like this:

Monday April 14: Fly Air National Guard C-17 to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland.  Stay at KISS (Kangerlussuaq International Science Support)

Tuesday April 15: at KISS-prep for Twin Otter flight

 Wednesday April 16: First field day: Twin Otter to Greenland Ice Sheet site #1. Fly to Illulissat.

 Thursday April 17: Second field day: Twin Otter back to GrIS site #2. Return to Ilulissat

 Friday April 18: Down day in Ilulissat

 Saturday April 19: Third field day: Helicopter to Disko Island site.  Return to Ilulissat.

 Sunday April 20: Happy Easter; down day

 Monday April 21: Patriot’s Day-Marathon Monday back home; Fourth field day: Helicopter to Disko Island site.  To Qaarsut for night.

 Tuesday/Wednesday April 22/23: Fifth and sixth field days: Helicopter to Nussuaq sites.

 Thursday April 24: back up day to reach Nussuaq sites; otherwise return to Ilulissat and Matt B and Ashley fly Air Greenland to Kangerlussuaq; rest of team overnights in Ilulissat

 Friday April 25: rest of team to Kangerlussuaq

 Saturday/Sunday April 26/27: Kangerlussuaq

Monday April 28: return to US

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Getting there: Logistics part 1

Posted by on Apr 10, 2014

In my “Welcome” note (see top Nav bar) I mention that students at Milton Academy will be contributing content to the site and blog.  The following interview was conducted, and written up, by Jonathan Chan, Class III.

Jonathan is interviewing Robin Abbott who is the Greenland Science Project Manager for Polar Field Services.  Polar Field Services handles all the logistics for National Science Foundation funded projects in Greenland.

1)      How do the researchers get themselves and their equipment from the US to Greenland?

There are different ways to do this. The National Science Foundation has a contract with the 109th Air National Guard and they have a base in northern New York and often researchers will fly on the 109th.  They put out a schedule at the beginning of the season and they usually fly starting in April and finish in August, and they usually fly for a week or so to Greenland and researchers try to use those flights to do their work and then come home. It’s sometimes tricky because everyone has their own time frame and sometimes their flights don’t work. So if that happens the researchers will use the Air National Guard  plane for one way and then they will come back using commercial airlines. And how you get out of Greenland is from Kangerlussuaq to Copenhagen, Denmark.  And then Copenhagen, Denmark you have to spend the night and then you fly out the next day and fly back to the United States. That’s why everyone likes to go on the 109th Air National Guard because it’s about a 6 hour flight and you get in the back of a C-130 or C-17 airplane and you fly to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland and you’re there. So there is no change in airplane and having to get in hotels and things like that. These aircraft also work in Antarctica so they go down there in our winter because its summer there and then they come and work for the Greenland side of things in the summer. Air Iceland is another way to get to Greenland but those are flights that mostly go to the east coast of Greenland but where we have an office is on the west coast of Greenland in Kangerlussuaq.

2)      How do the researchers get to field sites once in Greenland and who owns or manages the transportation?

Sarah Das (PI on our project) for instance, needs to have both a Twin Otter airplane and a helicopter and so do some of their research, depending on where they go in Greenland. For example if you are in the snow up on the ice with big old ice caps they use a Twin Otter to get there.  A Twin Otter is a fixed wing aircraft with two engines that seat about 10 passengers with the cargo and it has skis on it, so it goes up and lands on the ice cap and people can do their work there. Along the coast of Greenland it is very rugged and very mountainous so you have to use a helicopter to get to those sites because there is no landing area such as a strip or runway. If the cargo doesn’t fit in the helicopter they have to make a sling-load. They usually don’t like to put any people inside the helicopter when that happens but they like to put things inside. Sometimes with the smaller helicopters you need to sling-load.  So with Sarah Das and her project, we just found out that her big long ice box will fit inside of the helicopter so we are happy about that just because its quicker.

3)      Where do scientists stay/live while in Greenland?

When they fly to Kangerlussuaq on those C-17s or C130s, we have an office building there that is kind of like a dormitory and they have kitchens , bathrooms down the hall and everybody has to share a room.  That’s where they will stay the first night. And if they are travelling, in the case of Sarah, the Twin Otter will pick them up the next day to fly up to the next town and to the ice cap. And at that time I have rented hotel rooms for them [in Ilulisaat]. Sarah has 6 people in her group so I have 4 rooms and some have to share but it’s a nice area for researchers to talk and work on their gear and things. And then the group has to go to another site which is a little too far to get back to Ilulisaat so they will stay in a town on an island north of Ilulisaat, and there they don’t have any hotels so I have talked to the airport manager who has some rooms for pilots and different people who need housing so I’ve rented those rooms for that Sarah Das project. So you just have to kind of find out where they’re going and see what resources are there. It is sometimes challenging because there aren’t hotels and motels everywhere in Greenland. It’s a very big country but it only has 58 thousand people in the country and they call it the biggest island in the world. Sometimes other researchers will camp out on the ice caps and there they might take tents and sleeping bags and camp out for a week or two.

4)      Do scientists stay in Greenland year round like at the South Pole or McMurdo Station in Antarctica?

There are – these are the people working up at Summit Camp. This is a camp up on the Greenland ice sheet. It is in the middle of Greenland where they are studying snow chemistry and meteorology.  They also do drilling of ice cores to look back at snow from years ago. They’ve got internet up there, a big old satellite dish and there are 5 people that stay there all winter long and monitor 30 some measurements. So the researchers go up there and set them up and we have people there that are called technicians and they will take readings all winter.  There is mechanic there to make sure the generator is working to keep them warm and a manager too. They have beautiful Auroras this time of year (northern lights).

5)      What safety training and or equipment do you or your company issue to the scientists?

We do ask that all scientists bring their own sleeping bags and their own clothes. We hope everyone is very smart and knows how to dress and we find that most people do and Sarah Das is extremely professional at this – she’s been doing this for years. But as far as equipment is concerned, where they are flying on a helicopter or a Twin Otter, we give them survival bags – basically 3 days of food (dehydrated meals), a stove, tents , sleeping bags  – and all the things you would need if you got stuck out there and needed to survive and stay warm, but hopefully people don’t get in that situation. We also try to encourage people to go to field training of some kind. I think Sarah just had a class on glacier training for people going on her group. So we just encourage people to get some training on just how to walk on the snow, what to avoid if you’re going to be near crevasses; just all the risks that you might come in contact with out there. We offer these things and luckily Sarah did that. We have lots of things on our website you can read and there are different ways for people to get information to become quite savvy and smart when you’re out there in the wilderness.

6)      No matter how well you set things up ahead of time there must be changes in plans due to weather, equipment, etc.  How much of that do you have to handle on the fly while the field research is going on?

You’re right about that.  Usually we try to bring backup equipment. Sarah’s got an extra drill she’s bringing just in case her primary drill isn’t working, and then handling things on the fly. There is nothing you can do about the weather so we work with Air Greenland for the helicopters and we work with Nordland Air which is from Iceland for our Twin Otters. We always work with the pilot and just try to figure out the plan based on the weather. Sometimes we need them to open the airports because in Greenland the airports close. They are only open from 8 to 5 and some of them are only open from 9 to 4 because there is just not much traffic going on there. Hard to imagine.  Some airports they have to use helicopters and they are called heli-ports because they can’t land the airplanes. But anyway we just try to work with the provider, Air Greenland or Nordland Air, to figure out how can we get the work done and when we can do it and it usually works out pretty well – sometimes they have to send another helicopter because the helicopter is booked for someone else – so it’s a puzzle and that’s one of the challenges doing logistics – you make the best plan ever and it never goes just as you think it is going to. You love it when it works. You just try to do whatever you can do to get that work done for the scientists.

7)      What are a major concerns/ obstacles in terms of transporting the ice cores back to the researchers’ labs in the US?

I think our biggest concern there is mostly in Greenland because we have to use freezers there that we are borrowing so we find out what the temp is going to be and what our access will be. As I mentioned the airport is closed sometimes so that makes it hard for the person who can open the freezer who has gone home so we have a person that works in Greenland for us and she travels around and tries to pave the way, make arrangements and get to know the people, the locals, and maybe they will give her a key or something so maybe she can get in after hours. But it’s always a concern-the freezers in Greenland-because mostly they don’t know whether and ice core box will fit in their freezer. So I found freezers in both these towns and they should do fine but then when it’s time to bring the samples back we kind of have to trust that they know the ice boxes should not be taken out of the freezers and sit there with their airplanes – you need to treat the ice boxes like frozen samples – like ice cream and get it on that plane and make sure it gets to the next site because some of these planes have two stops before they get to our freezer so you know each time there is a risk – what if the airplane breaks down etc.? You just kind of keep tabs on it the best you can. Once things get to Kangerlussuaq though, we have a freezer we can use there. We can turn it way down so it gets very cold and then we have what we call a “cold deck” on the C130s where there are no people on the deck and we’ll ask them to turn off all the heat in the back because we have frozen sample ice cores coming out . So they will fly that plane back to New York and at that end we have a freezer truck that we’ve hired and they will get the boxes off and deliver the boxes to the different universities.

8) Is there anything else interesting (tools, equipment, accommodation) that you could share?

I’ll tell you one thing. On the east coast of Greenland it is mostly accessed from Iceland and on the west Coast it is mostly accessed by Denmark. When you’re in Greenland, it feels like you’re in the past because there are a lot of hunters and they are selling meat and their fish is hanging and drying like you witness from way back and people are just very traditional. There is also a lot of Danish influence there and its very interesting and colorful – all the houses are really bright and they are still doing things like going out on sleds and hunting polar bears and walruses and all these things up north.

(This interview transcript has been edited (minimally) from Robin’s actual language for clarity).

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